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There are few places on Earth . . . |
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Indonesia
There are few places on Earth that evoke such vivid images as the beautiful islands, peninsulas, mountains, and rainforests of Indonesia. The vivid array of
cultures, ethnic groups, religions, and the contrasts of ultra modern cities and "stone age"
lifestyles of forest peoples, create an ever fascinating panorama for the visitor to enjoy. To enter into the lives of these diverse people, as they help us become
familiar with each area's natural beauty and wildlife, is the ultimate natural history experience.
Indonesia, the world's largest archipelago, straddles the Equator for over 3,000 miles
across the South China Sea. Its innumerable islands are known by such evocative names as
Sumatra, Java, and Sulawesi. This immense geographic spectrum is mirrored by an equal
diversity of cultures -- from "primitive" hunter-gatherers in highland Irian
Jaya, to professionals on the cutting edge of technology in Jakarta. The modern and the
traditional coexist and mingle throughout this entire region, and its people are a
fascinating reflection of east and west, ancient and modern, rich and poor, rural and
urban -- all creating one of Earth's most dynamic nations, and a haven for fascinating and
spectacular wildlife.
This stunningly scenic region of tropical islands, rugged mountains, bays, and peninsulas
was created by eons of constantly changing sea levels. This is due to changes in global
temperatures and the volcanic upheavals inherent in its position along a most active
segment of the "Ring of Fire." From the myriad of coral reefs along the shores
to the glacier-clad peak of Carstenz in Irian Jaya, to the great tropical rainforests,
which still cover 77% of Indonesia, there is a wealth of natural wonder, a dynamic yet
eternal beauty.
Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa, Komodo, Rinca - the names conjure up visions of remote and
mysterious mountains, smiling people, strange and exotic animals, and palm-fringed white
beaches lapped by warm tropical seas. These images are all true. The foremost image, though, is of luxuriant, ancient, and vibrant rainforest -- mighty
trees, draped with
lianas and thickly encrusted with epiphytes, mosses, and orchids, soaring above a tangled
web of undergrowth where each species vies with its neighbor for light and nutrients. The
region has five different forest types. Coastal mangrove and nipa palms are invaluable
land stabilizers and nursery for marine animals. Freshwater swamp forests, dipterocarp forests, which once cloaked most of Indonesia, heath forests of low stunted trees
struggling in nutrient poor soil; and high altitude montane forests of mighty trees and
silent swirling mists. The ancient rainforest here is the oldest on the planet. For over
100 million years this vast engine of life has been in existence -- adapting, evolving,
but maintaining its cycle of birth and death, growth and decay -- unaffected by the
climatic roller coaster which kept the rest of the world in constant environmental transition.
Our voyage introduces us to the beauty and diversity of the Lesser Sunda Indonesian
islands and gives opportunities to meet the equally diverse people who make them their home.
Geography
During the course of a collecting expedition by Sir Alfred Russell Wallace, the 19th
century naturalist noticed a distinct difference between the species of birds on the
island of Bali and that of Lombok, only 30 kilometers to the east. The name
"Wallace's Line" was given to delineate the curious bio-geographical division
between the two islands. Years later, Bali, Java, Sumatra and Borneo were determined to be
part of a larger Asian land mass (on the Sunda Shelf) when sea levels were much lower than today. Asian birds, flora and fauna dispersed throughout the land mass
freely, however,
water barriers presented them from continuing further. Conversely, islands to the east
such as New Guinea and the Maluccas (on the Sahal Shelf) host fauna that is more typical
of Australian animal and bird species. Furthermore, the islands of Nusa
Tenggara, which
include Lombok, Sumbawa, Komodo and Rinca, formed as a result of an overlap of the Asian
Sunda Shelf and Australian Sahal Shelf. Animal migration between the islands of Nusa
Tenggara was limited in part by boundaries of deep water.
As a result of Indonesia's 17,000 islands spanning two continental shelves, the country is
a treasure-trove of birds, animals, reptiles and insects, many endemic to specific areas.
The Sumatran Tiger, the Javan Rhino, the Orangutans and Proboscis Monkeys of
Kalimantan,
the endemic Bear Cuscus and Babirusa (Deerpig) of Sulawesi, the Tree Kangaroos of Irian
Jaya and the Komodo Dragons of Komodo and Rinca are some of the fascinating spectrum of
animals found in Indonesia. Bird species number over 1,500, and include exotic Rhinoceros Hornbills, the rare Bali Myna, mound-building Maleo Birds, Sulfur Crested
Cockatoos,
brilliant Kingfishers, Racket tailed Drongos and the spectacular Birds of Paradise.
Indonesia's warm tropical seas also support some of the world's greatest marine biodiversity. Thousands of coral reefs are found all over the archipelago and boast over
3,000 species of fish and over 750 species of corals (more than a greater part the Great
Barrier Reef!). Spinner Dolphins, Killer Whales, Dugongs, Leatherback Turtles, Yellow-fin Tuna, Black Marlin, Whales Sharks, Manta Rays, meter-wide Giant
Clams, Moray Eels, Banded
Sea Snakes, and millions of brilliant reef fish are only naming a few of the inhabitants
of Indonesia's incredibly rich coral reefs.
National Parks and Reserves
The Indonesian government has created over 150 national parks and reserves within the
country which include both unique terrestrial and marine environments. Although the
initiative to preserve more areas continues, a lack of funding and conservation management
is prevalent in most of these "paper parks." Unfortunately, population pressures, poaching and habitat destruction still effect the animals and their habitats
within the boundaries of these parks. The efforts of non-governmental conservation
organizations such and the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and The Nature Conservancy
(TNC), are making vast improvements in the preservation of key areas. With private
funding, they are creating and implementing long-term park management plans.
Parks and Sanctuaries
Indonesia enjoys abundant natural beauty as well as many fascinating and unique plants and animals. A recent and far reaching program of preservation and protection by the
government has enlarged and improved the National Parks, Nature Reserves and Protected
Forests which now cover over 46,000 square miles - about 6.5% of the total land area. Some
of these areas are quite remote and others are easily accessible. These are important in
that they are often the last unspoiled habitats for such imperiled species as Javan Rhinoceros, wild elephants and orangutan. One of the most famous of Indonesia's National
Parks is Komodo Island, where the Dragons of legend may be seen and marveled at - from a
discreet distance!
Wildlife
Western Indonesia, Peninsular Malaysia, and Borneo all emerge from the Sunda Shelf, an
extension of the Asian Continent, and have periodically been contiguous, that is they were
joined together as a land mass. Eastern Indonesia has never been a part of any larger landmass. These geological differences have created an incredible
bio-diversity. Indonesia
is renowned for its lowland rainforests, where the animal life is amazingly varied, though
the numbers of individual animals are limited. These animals are also seldom seen,
preferring to stay hidden as they feed or rest. Primates are often the exception; their
noisy and gregarious lifestyle and the relative safety of the treetops make them the most
conspicuous of all. Large animals are rare in the forests, but elephants, tapirs, rhinos,
and deer may be observed as they gather by the water or rest in the shade during the heat
of the day. These large species tend to be smaller than their relatives in cooler, less
humid regions -- the Malaysian Elephant is usually only 8 feet high and the Sumatran or
Asian Two-horned Rhinoceros is the smallest of all rhinos. This endangered animal is on
the brink of extinction, but is being protected in a managed breeding program. |
Bali's Geography
Bali, one of the smallest of the Indonesian Islands, is located directly south of the
island of Borneo. These islands are part of a ridge of volcanic cones, which connect
Southeast Asia with Australia. The southern part of Bali is fertile and laced with waterways, the primary ones being holy rivers of Pakrisan and
Petanu. The remains of
ancient cities are to be found in abundance here. The highest mountain in Bali is Gunung
Agung, at 10,300 feet (3142 meters), on the eastern side of the
island. The once
prosperous region around this volcanic peak was devastated in the early 1960s when a
serious eruption occurred. It has taken over twenty years to restore this rice growing
land to its former state of fertility. To the west, dense jungle makes this the least
inhabited segment of the island.
Denpasar
The capital of Bali is located on the southern part of the island. The city has grown
rapidly in recent years and now has a population of over 100,000. Its narrow streets
barely hold the ever-present traffic, which ranges from bicycles hauling huge loads on
flat beds fixed on the back, scooters, large trucks and buses. The city's life
centers around a large open area called Puputan Square, where a huge statue of the god,
Guru, its four faces pointed to the four points of the compass, is a recognized landmark.
This area is an intriguing place to shop, with its small shops, restaurants and an
open market. Most people shop in the morning or evening and observe a long
"siesta" in the afternoon.
Bali Barat National Park
Located in the northwest corner of Bali, this park is the last refuge of the endangered
Rothschild's Starling. Its savannah-like vegetation provides spectacular walking trails. Nearby, the small island of Menjangan has spectacular reefs for snorkeling and
diving.
Ubud
Located amidst spectacular padi fields in the hills north of Denpasar, Ubud is often
considered "the cultural heart of Bali" and supports a strong community of artists, expatriates and farmers.
Nusa Tenggara
Nusa Tenggara, or the "Southwest Islands" is a
string of remote and largely
undeveloped volcanic islands stretching 1,500 kilometers across the
Indonesian archipelago. The islands of Lombok,
Sumbawa, Komodo, Rinca, Flores, Solar, Alor, Sumba and
Timor make up this island chain "off the beaten track" and offer a wonderful
spectrum of rugged geography, fascinating cultures and natural wonders.
Lombok
This large island is dominated by a range of volcanic mountains in the north, and towering
above these is Mt. Rinjani which at 12,300 feet is the second tallest peak in Indonesia. A
lesser range of non-volcanic peaks punctuate the island's barren southern end, and in
between a narrow strip, under 20 miles wide, provides most of the agricultural land. Not
surprisingly it is here that much of the island's population is centered. In the west,
watered by mountain streams and artesian wells, farmers have worked the hillsides into
sculptured rice terraces along the fertile alluvial slopes below Mount
Punikan. It is here
that rural villages and the two principal towns, Mataram and Ampenam, are found.
Lombok lies across a deep channel east of Bali. It was, however, colonized from East Java
by the Sasak people, then brought under Javanese control as part of its empire in 1365. In
the 17th century the island was once again invaded, this time from two directions, the
west by the Balinese and the east by Muslim Makassarese traders from Sumbawa. Under the
latter's influence, the aristocracy was converted to Islam, and remained so until the present. However, in 1677 Balinese and Sasaks united to expel the
Makasseres, and several
independent Muslim kingdoms were established in the east. In the west, the Balinese
inspired a Hindu state and led a "golden age" of building and refurbishing temples, and establishing a Royal Court known for its pageantry and
splendor. United once
again in 1849, the island was ruled for a scant 50 years by the Balinese before being
conquered by the Dutch in a bloody and hard won battle. Today the island is a cultural
checker board of Hindu, Muslim, and Sasak, all with their distinctly different and
sometimes antagonistic differences.
Lombok's Geography
This small circular island on the east side of "Wallace's Line" is the home of
Indonesia's second highest peak, Gunung Rinjani, which stands at 3726 meters. Along the
middle of the island runs a 30 kilometer wide green belt, transected by hundreds of
streams and irrigation ducts. The rest of the island is relatively arid and featureless
and the soil is less productive than that of the neighboring Bali.
Sumbawa's Geography
Dry rolling hills, deep valley gorges and the world's most destructive volcano can all
describe the island of Sumbawa. The infamous volcano, Gunung Tambora, last
erupted in 1815 with such fury that it created an explosion that
summoned Raffles, thousands of miles away in Batavia (modern day
Jakarta), to mistakenly prepare his troops for battle. The effect of the
massive eruption was so devastating that it caused earthquakes, tsunamis, cyclones,
drought and ensuing famine which claimed the lives of tens of thousands of people
throughout Nusa Tenggara. The volume of smoke and ash alone was so thick, that in 1816,
the world over experienced "the year without sun."
Komodo National Park
The islands of Komodo National Park are a spectacle of raw beauty and the home of some
awesome natural wonders. The islands of Komodo, Rinca and Padar are included within the
park, and Gili Banta, a deserted volcanic island with incredible coral reef life, lies
just outside of the protected area. The park was established in 1980 and is declared a Man
and Biosphere World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Komodo Geography
The islands of Komodo and Rinca are considered only 70 million years young, created by
eons of violent volcanic uplifting. From the air, the jagged edge of these islands look
like claws of a mythical creature with webs of bone white coral sand. Swaths of dark green
mangrove forests trim the edges of Rinca creating the effect of a lush oasis along the
parched brown land. Lontar palms dot the hills of the island and cactus sprawl along the
dried mud flats of the low lands. The islands seem inhospitable for man and beast, as only
the heartiest of beings inhabit the harsh and foreboding setting.
Komodo Wildlife
At first glance, the islands of Komodo and Rinca seem barren and devoid of wildlife but a
closer look will reveal herds of Timor deer grazing on fallen blossoms, wild boar, wild
water buffaloes (kerbau), mound-building Megapode birds, Pit Vipers, Green Snakes and of course, the fearless Komodo Dragon. Although the islands
that make up the National Park are
only a few kilometers apart, Padar has no known mammals. Komodo and Rinca have a slightly
different composition of wildlife. In addition to those already mentioned, Komodo has
blocks of Sulfur Crested Cockatoos and Drongo birds and Rinca, on the other hand, has wild
horses and Long-Tailed Macaques. The Komodo Dragons (Varanus Komodoensis) are found
nowhere else on earth except for here and a small part of western Flores. They are the
largest of all monitor lizards, and are perhaps the most unnerving species of all, due to
their ravenous eating habits and fearsome presence. Their sensitive forked tongues can
sense the smell of carrion, their preferred meal, up to 7 miles away. Their coarse scaly
skin blends in perfectly with the tangled roots and dead leaves of their environment, and
allows them to easily ambush unwary prey. Their sharp serrated teeth, and their long
strong claws, are prefect tools for ripping and shredding. The dragon's jaws can unhinge
to consume large chunks of flesh in one swallow. Their bacteria-laden saliva can kill an animal, just one bite and victims wound simply festers into a deadly massive
infection.
The mating season in June and July yields about 30 eggs per female. Once hatched, the
young dragons quickly flee to the safety of the trees to avoid being eaten by other dragons. The young eat birds, insects and small mammals for the first two years of life
until they are large enough to fend for themselves on the ground. Young adults are often
seen on the beach sunning or scavenging for rotting fish, while the older ones are usually
found on the hilly Savannah or the monsoon forest.
The underwater world of Komodo National park is indeed a spectacular display of the most
colorful and diverse marine life in the world. Nutrient-rich waters ebb and flow through
the narrow passages between the islands at such a rate, that sometimes eddies and patches
of "white water" can be seen swirling over submerged sea mounds. Hard and soft
coral of every imaginable shape, color and size sprawl over the reef. Brilliant reef
fishes of all intensities and dimensions swim only meters from the sandy shores. A
spectacular array of invertebrate life abound. Cyan blue Linkia sea-stars, jewel-toned
giant clams, sea-cucumbers, a "forest" of Christmas Tree worms, reef octopus,
alien-looking cuttlefish, magnificent sea anemones, peacock-colored mantis shrimp and spider
conchs are only a few members of the complex ecosystem that exists on the reef. In addition, an incredible number of pelagic fish migrate through this area: Spanish
Mackerel, Little Eastern Tuna, Sailfish, Wahoo and Mahi-Mahi. Sightings of Spinner and
Bottlenose Dolphins are common in the open waters of the National Park. Hawksbill and
Green Turtles are also frequent visitors on the reef slopes.
Komodo National Park encompasses some 290 square miles of small islands, including Komodo
Island which lies 312 miles to the east of Bali. It is 19 miles long on its north-south axis, and is recognizable by its parched hills, sparsely covered by scruffy undergrowth
and skinny Lontar palms. The island is known as the home of several hundred
of the world's heaviest and most respected lizards -- the Komodo
Dragons, which may easily be seen here in their natural habitat. Giant
monitor lizards, these voracious predators and scavengers are one of the
oldest and most closely related species to the dinosaurs of a hundred
million years ago. The dragons are aptly named, though their fearsome
appearance belies their somewhat wary response when faced with danger.
If cornered, however, Komodo Dragons live up to their aggressive
reputations. Adult males may reach 10 feet in length and weigh over 300
lbs. Females are smaller, only two thirds this size.
The park protects wildlife in a variety of habitats including vertical rocky cliffs, dry
rugged mountains, and green lowland forests surrounded by deep waters rich in nutrients
and prolific coral reefs. It is home to several fascinating species such as the
mound-building Megapode Bird, the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, and the noisy Friarbird. Deer,
wild pig, and water buffalo also inhabit the island, serving as prey for the monitors.
There is one small village on the island with less than five hundred inhabitants; their
origins are unknown. Since the park was formed, they no longer farm or garden here, but
make a living by fishing off shore and selling trinkets to tourists. |
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